- #MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING HOW TO#
- #MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING INSTALL#
- #MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING CRACK#
The Blue Sea Systems kit lets you share the charge between both of your batteries with great efficiently, far more efficiently than any single battery isolator. Because moving parts are involved, you’re going to encounter more issues related to wear-and-tear.īlue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Kit (120 Amp) The only downside is that you have to actually wire the relay into your ignition circuit.
These relays tend to be very small, and they don’t lead to voltage drop among your contacts.
The relay switches on or off depending on the status of your ignition. Similarly, an isolator relay diode is also installed in a position between your batteries and the alternator. But the heat sink for these types of units tend to be larger, and voltage drop among the diodes can lead to undercharging your batteries if you’re not careful. It’s almost as simple as placing the unit. Moreover, installing a diode isolator is pretty simple because there are no moving parts. That lets you connect with the secondary battery without having to discharger your starter. For the better battery isolators on the market, these typically range between 120A and 150A. You want isolators rated to carry the amount of voltage and amperage you expect to draw. Different batteries have different needs. Isolation aside, different vehicles have different batteries. Seemingly simple features, like start isolation, can ensure that your sensitive electronics won’t be subjected to the kind of sags in voltage that may occur when engine cranking happens. Expanding beyond two batteries isn’t only prohibitively expensive, it’s totally unnecessary in most circumstances. But for someone seeking a simple two battery solution, what you’re looking for is a dual battery isolator. If you’re planning on running a giant battery bank, filled with hundreds or thousands of batteries, then you’d need a pretty impressive isolator. Luckily, it’s not that tough to choose an effective battery isolator.
You don’t want your battery isolator to cause problems with your vehicle’s electrical systems, or with the devices connected to whatever local grid you’re working on. Perhaps more importantly, ending up with the wrong detector could be more trouble than its worth. That way if I ever have it switched off and it fills with water then it can empty itself out.Choosing the Right 12V DC Dual Battery Isolator
#MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING HOW TO#
My only task left is to work out how to run the bilge directly off the battery rather than through the switch (that bundle of black wire in the corner).
#MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING INSTALL#
Ideally it would have been nice to install the VSR above or below the switch as it would have been much nicer looking but I didnt have enough space. The negatives run to a power post located underneath the switch. The outboard, accessories and bilge pump were already fused. I installed 2 new Bluesea fuses along with the VSR and switch which allows me to parallel the batteries if the start battery goes flat. I got a fair bit of my information from US wakeboarding blogs/sites (they seem to run a second battery to power a massive stereo) and from Jaycar (go during the quiet times and you can usually find someone willing to help out) as well as the instructions that came with the VSR.
#MARINE DUAL ENGINE BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING CRACK#
Im certainly not a marine electrician but I was willing to have a crack myself. I seem to be running the same amount of gear as Antony listed above and the little starter battery worried me.Īfter quite a lot of research on the internet it seems as though there are a couple of ways people hook them up. I just finished putting a VSR in my Bayliner. Will the VSR work with this set up and do I simply intersect the linking positive leads with the VSR?. I also want to install a VSR so my question is. I need to replace both batteries now as they are well past their used by dates and dead due to my mistake of leaving a few electronics on last week. The current battery set-up uses the negative leads from both batteries and engine go into the battery isolator switch and both batteries are connected via the positives connected by a cross over lead - not sure if this ok as most oif what I have read is that it all needs to link back through the positive leads ? I am looking to get some advice on the twin battery set-up. My rig is a seafarer Cuddy 2002 with a 90hp Johnson on the back.This was a replacement for a very similar set-up which was stolen a off my driveway in late 2010 ( two days before Xmas to be precise)
I will start with a bit of a description of the set-up of the boat which has been in place and been functioning ok since I have had the boat (2011). I am a newbie to the forum having come from a forum that was more oriented to Vic Fishos so I thought I would reach out on a topic that no doubt has been well covered although I am looking for some specific advice.
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